Thursday, 14 July 2011

Up High on Stanage High Neb

High Neb Buttress
Stanage Edge Part 3: High Neb

 High above the fields of bracken and beneath the wings of gliding birds of prey, stands High Neb Buttress the Highest point of Stanage Edge, here lies a sea of scattered millstones, regular Nesting restrictions and my first outdoor experience.

A quieter part of the edge in comparison to the rest and a longer walk in, Coincidence, I suspect not.  But due to it's exposure and altitude this is also quick drying, which is good as the main 'Tick' here ,High Neb Buttress VS 4c, is a classic grit slab with a little of everything.

  As with all of Stanage there is classics here at all grades. Approach from Dennis Knoll and either follow the causeway to the top or take the short-cut over the fence(Don't do this in spring). Once on the rock rack up and enjoy, as stated early High Neb is a must but why not give the overhanging Jeepers Creepers E1 5b a try. Or go for something easier like Cave Buttress S4a. Norse Corner Hs 4c is also an enjoyable corner to bridge and work you way up.

  There is a lot of grit here and less polish than most all in all making a fun day out , getting up to 20 meters is good fun  but as you start higher already it makes  the journey that little bit more satisfying.

There is more Crag at the even quieter Stanage North but as yet I'm still to make it there.

  Crag Summary
Quick drying and quieter this can be great location for a day of ticking off some classics.


 Seasonal nesting can make the approach long and the wind that dries the rock can get pretty strong up here. The car park also gets full pretty quick due to it's small size.

A few pic's

The Saddler on Norse Corner Climb

Jeepers creepers E1 5b

The Approach

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