Sunday, 10 July 2011

Planting roots and getting boulders.

Goliath's Groove HVS 5a
STANAGE EDGE part 2: the plantation.

  Stanage Plantation has been popular for a long time, especially for it's bouldering dating back to the first recorded ascents in 1976 right up to modern test pieces, like the ever popular Bard Pit.
 Recognisable from a distance by the tree line that hides the boulders from those that approach from Stanage Popular, and best approached from the Plantaion car park(tea and cake available here). Follow the bath from here and it's a short uphill walk to the boulders and a scramble to routes that over look the Pebble below.

  The boulders can be busy on weekends so bring a rope and try some single pitch routes, you will find this crag can be quieter than the popular side.... Marginally.

looking down Hollybush Gully Right

  If you do find yourself here to lay siege to the walls of grit then there is more grit classics here like the bold Goliath's Groove first ascended by Pete Harding in 1947, and for a HVS 5a, it still stumps the best of us(I have fallen off the bottom a few times now). Here you also find Holly-bush Gully Right and although the holly bush is now gone this route can make a perfect first lead on grit, a lovely warm up with a little traversing, opportunities to jam and even a slab inside the gully.

one stuck Danny
 I can recommend against any grit Chimney though after my experience on Helfenstiens struggle only VDIFF, and only possible for the skinny. With so many climbs here to try there is no need to waste you time, and if you do get bored there's  always the beck and call of them boulders like Not to be taken away (v4).

 One of the climbs here to be found on my wish list Tower Face Direct, E2 5b, hopefully my first lead. it was an amazing second and very bold, I will have to wait for my next visit for that one.

 As with any piece of Stanage I could list route after route and tell you tall tales to go with them but instead here a couple of pictures... none of bouldering yet though I will update when I finally have some.

Crag Summary

Easy access with lots to do.Dedicated car park with coffee stand . Lots of classic routes from 8meters to 20 meters.

 Some minor scrambling required for access to Trad routes. Can get busy particularly on the boulders.

A few Pics

Dave seconding Chris's ascent of Tower Face Direct
For epic scale..Stanage plantation is the wall to the left the Woods

A few of the lads bouldering

moments before I found out i wouldn't fit through that hole

Jenny Top roping  Hollybush Gully Right (First ever outdoor climb)

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